The one rule

Never leave a baby and a pet alone together — not for a second, not even a pet you trust completely. Everything else on this site is secondary to this.

Preparing & pet-proofing

Start three months out,
not the week you come home.

Every change you make before the baby arrives is a change your dog never has to associate with the baby. That is the whole strategy, and it is why timing matters more than technique.

An expectant couple standing either side of their dog
Three months is enough time. Three weeks is not.
3 months outHealth and habits
  • Full vet check. A dog in pain has a shorter fuse, and arthritis is a genuine bite risk factor people miss.
  • Update flea, tick and worm cover and keep it current. This protects the baby as much as the dog.
  • Train what will actually be useful: a reliable settle on a mat, four paws on the floor, leaving items on cue. Impulse control, not tricks.
  • Fix guarding now. If your dog guards food, toys or furniture, get professional help this month. It will not improve on its own and it is far harder with a newborn in the house.
2 months outSpace and equipment
  • Make every furniture and room change now, so the move is not linked to the baby’s arrival.
  • Fit the gates and let the dog get used to them. A gate beats a closed door — the dog can still see and hear you, which lowers anxiety instead of raising it.
  • Assemble the pram and swing early and let the dog investigate them switched off, then running, with nothing dramatic happening.
  • Create one genuinely dog-only space that nobody ever disturbs. Later this will matter enormously.
A dog resting inside an open wire crate
The crate is a retreat, never a punishment
A dog walking calmly beside an empty pushchair on a pavement
Wheels, brakes and squeaks: all rehearsed before they matter
A dog licking its nose while waiting for a treat
Pair every new thing with something good
1 month outSounds and rehearsal
  • Play newborn crying at very low volume, paired with something good, building over weeks. Go back a step if the dog looks worried.
  • Move to the new routine now — walks at the times they will actually happen, so the change is already old news.
  • Use baby lotion and powder on yourself so the smell becomes ordinary.
  • Arrange the hospital-stay cover. Whoever will care for the dog should visit and practise, not meet them on the day.
Coming homeThe first meeting
  • Send a blanket home ahead of you so the baby’s smell arrives before the baby does.
  • Greet the dog first, without the baby. Days of excitement and a first introduction do not belong in the same minute.
  • Keep it brief, calm and on lead. Let the dog approach and withdraw freely. Never hold a baby down to a dog or a dog up to a baby.
  • End early, while it is still going well. Several short, boring introductions beat one long, exciting one.
3 months afterThe part people skip
  • Do not relax the rules. Three settled months usually means your baby has not moved yet, not that the risk has changed.
  • Rehearse for mobility before it arrives. Rolling starts around four months, crawling from roughly six. To your dog, a baby who can move is a completely different animal: fast, unpredictable, at eye level, grabbing.
  • Re-check the gates and the retreat. Every safe space needs an exit the dog can use without passing the child.
  • Watch for drift. Stress signals that fade often mean the dog has stopped signalling, not that it is happier.
If the baby is already here None of this expires. Start where you are, make the changes gradually, and be stricter about separation in the meantime.

Pet-proofing the nursery

Barriers beat good intentions. A gate works when you are exhausted, ill or asleep — which is exactly when a rule you meant to follow does not.

A nursery with an empty cot and a dog lying on the rug

The nursery is off-limits

A hardware-mounted gate rather than a closed door, so the dog can still see and hear the household.

An empty cot with a video monitor clipped to the rail

Nothing soft in the cot

Standard safe-sleep guidance that doubles as pet management: bare, firm, flat, no toys or loose bedding.

A dog settled in its own bed

A retreat nobody disturbs

Somewhere the dog is genuinely left alone but can still see the household. Teach children early that it is never entered.

A cat resting by a window

Cats: trays and cot nets

Toxoplasmosis can pass through cat faeces and matters in pregnancy — someone else should change the tray daily, or wear gloves. Cats seek warmth, so a cot needs a taut net.

A baby changing area with supplies stored on a high shelf

Changing supplies high up

Nappy bins are extremely interesting to dogs and the contents are a real hazard. Lidded, dog-proof, off the floor.

Dog toys and a bowl on the floor

Separate the toy piles

Dog toys and baby toys look, smell and squeak alike. Different rooms entirely, and pick up promptly.

The rest of the house

The nursery gets the attention. Most of the day happens elsewhere.

The living room

Where most of the contact actually happens and where the fewest barriers exist. Decide now where the baby goes down and keep it consistent. Never leave a baby on a sofa, bed or changing mat with a dog in the room, even briefly.

Feeding areas

Feed the dog somewhere the baby will never be, behind a door where possible. Food is the commonest trigger for guarding, and a crawling baby heading for a bowl is the classic scenario. Stop free-feeding once the baby is mobile.

Stairs, hallways and the garden

Narrow spaces remove a dog’s ability to move away, and a large dog coming downstairs at speed takes a standing toddler with it. Outside, clear faeces daily rather than weekly — toxocariasis comes from roundworm eggs that need days to become infectious, so prompt clearing genuinely protects.

Learn to read the signals next.

Preparation buys you time. Reading your dog accurately is what you do with it.